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Armenia travel info

Armenia- Nagorno K.: 6 days,  March08

 


 

INTRO ARMENIA

Kind of travel:
a wholly independent travel

When:
19th- 26th, March08

Do I need a visa?
Y es, I got it at the airport in 10 min (30 euro for 120 days!!)

How I moved:
marshrutka (minibus) or shared taxis are the best bet to get almost everywhere while bargaining for a private taxi sometimes is the only solution; forget the train.

Freezing or baking?
As for the weather march is always a gamble, but despite some rain, I got wonderful sunny warm days (20 C). Don't underrate the wind when packing.

Where I slept:
there's no lack of B&Bs and old soviet hotels ranging from 15 to30 euro. Even in central hotels don't take hot water always for granted and feel free to negotiate.

What I liked:
I loved the snowy mountainy landscapes and the frozen Sevan lake. I experienced zero hassles from militaries, and got charmed by the armenian kindness in being photographed, but the best was the cheap Kotaika beeeeeer!!!! :-)

What I disliked:
I didn't expect such abandonment spread everywhere together with plenty of rubbish. Finding an open restaurant several times became a challenge.

How much daily:
if you are used to Russia, Armenia is less costy, but you need still 30 euro per person travelling in a couple, though. Hiring a car can be the main expense, even if relatively cheap. Visa at airport is 30 euro.

Dangers/ hassles:
three main dangers.
Smashing against another car at the formula one speed of Armenian drivers, being knocked down while daring to cross the road on the zebra and, the last but not the least, falling into one of the many deep huge sewers left opened

What to have:
even some basic knowledge of Russian will help a lot; don't forget a handy dictionary.


IMPRESSIONS ABOUT ARMENIA

Two could be the keywords for Armenia: marshrutkas and monasteries.
The formers are the very mean of transport of the country, while the latter are its highlight. However, what I found even more striking than them, it's the Armenian post- URSS situation. In fact I didn't expected to find the country in a status of abandonment to such extent of becoming melancholic. Left out the capital Yerevan, the rest seems to have known an old glory now completely disappeared and, at the end, this status really characterized the country.
It must be said that all this abandonment is plunged in an amazing scenery of mountains and hills: in particular the prize goes to the snowed Vorotan pass, the narrow Deben canyon and the frozen Sevan lake.
From my point of view for any traveler Armenia is a must, but you know, I'm too interested in this part of the word to be objective :-)

Alby

 

THE TRAVEL IN ARMENIA

Landed in Yerevan in the heat of the night, I was welcomed by the attempted of being cheated getting the visa (read the story); I thought I'd have spent the whole travel struggling against dodgeys, but on the contrary this turned out to be the only episode.
At 8.30 am I was already on a marshrutka (minibus) heading to Stepanakert. It's the capital of Nagorno Karabakh, a republic populated by Armenians in the territory of Azerbabaijan, that claims official independency or the annexion to Armenia. It took almost 8h (10 euro each), but both the scenery of the snowed Vorotan Pass was amazing, and I had no issue at the border despite not having the Nagorno visa.

[Travelling in Nagorno]


The third day I reentered Armenia reaching the town of Goris by a shared taxi from Stepanakert (2h, 4 euro/each). After having settled down in a cute B&B (Khachik B&B, 22 euro the whole house for us), I hired a taxi for a trip to the monastery of Tatev (14 euro for the car, 3h). The Vorotan canyon makes the trip absolutely worthwhile, but frankly from the monastery itself I had higher expectations.
From Goris combining shared taxi and marshrutka I got to Vanadzor in 6h.
The following day by one of those stylish rusty yellow buses I reached Alaverdi driving along the Deben canyon, that from my point of view is the nicest place I've seen in the country. In Alaverdi by the funicular used by the employers of the cave, I visited the monastery of Sanahin and the hiring a taxi the Haghpat one; both of them should not be missed!
my last day I came back to Yerevan by marshrutka (2h), settling down in a private house (22 euro for a double) and I had a quick trip to the frozen Sevan lake; try a guess how I got there?? By marshrutka, of course!! : Here I hired a taxi to visit the monastery of Sevanavank (1h, 4euro for the car) enjoying the great view from the top of the peninsula.
The following morning at 4.00 am I go to the airport to fly back home …

Alby

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