Nagorno travel info
Armenia- Nagorno
K.: 6 days, March08
WHAT'S NAGORNO ?
| Nagorno-Karabakh
is a region in the South Caucasus inhabitated by an Armenian
enclave. It encompasses the Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, a
de facto independent republic, and is geographically part
of the Republic of Azerbaijan. Nagorno is fully supported
by Armeni,. but it's not officialy part of the country,
despite they claim it. Nowadays it's a disputed area. |
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Nagorno map, click
on to enlarge
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INTRO NAGORNO
Kind
of travel: A
wholly independent travel
When:
19th- 26th, March08
Do
I need a visa?: yes,
I got it in Stepanakert in 20min for 21 euro valid 5 days (read
here details)
How
I moved: marshrutka (minibus) or shared taxis are the
best bet to get almost everywhere while bargaining for a private
taxi sometimes is the only solution.
Freezing
or baking?: as for the weather March is always a gamble,
but despite some rain, I got nice sunny warm days (20 C). Don't
underrate the wind when packing.
Where
I slept: Stepanakert is not plenty of accommodations,
or better, I found just an anonimum hotel ( a double for 40euro
w/o breakfast and barganing)!!! I guess, asking around, you
can spot some private rooms, but, unless you don't speak Russian,
it won't be like drinking a cup of tea
What
I liked: I experienced zero hassles from militaries,
Shushi is quite impressive and the Lada/ Zigulì cars
everywhere make the atmosphere in Nagorno quite movie like.
Don't miss the funny girls in Stepanakert, all dressed as parading
:-)
What
I disliked: I didn't expect such abandonment spread
everywhere and finding an open restaurant in Stepanakert became
a challenge.
How
much daily: it's more expensive than Armenia: consider
35 euro per person travelling in a couple (hotel 20, food 7,
transp 8 + extra). Hiring a car can be the main expense, even
if relatively cheap.
Dangers/
hassles: Nagorno is one of the most mined areas on
the earth, but, you will be far more likely to get knock down
trying to cross the road on the zebra in Stepanakert than blowing
on an UXO.
What
to have: even some basic knowledge of Russian will
help a lot; don't forget a handy dictionary.
THE
TRAVEL IN NAGORNO
[Coming
from Armenia]
At 8.30 am I was already on a marshrutka (minibus) heading to
Stepanakert. It's the capital of Nagorno Karabakh, a republic
populated by Armenians in the territory of Azerbabaijan, that
claims official independency or the annexion to Armenia. It
took almost 8h (10 euro each), but both the scenery of the snowed
Vorotan Pass was amazing, and I had no issue at the border
despite not having the Nagorno visa. In Stepanakert no big choice
in term of accommodation, so I opted for the costy and anonymous
Nairi Hotel (a double for 40 euro, even bargaining!!!).
The following day at first I went to the Foreign Affairs Office
from where, with 21 euro less for each, I was going out with
the Nagorno visa stuck on my passports (read
the details). Then after a funny negotiation at the bus
station, I hired a taxi for a trip to the monastery of Gandzasar
(16 euro for the car, 2.5h): nice scenery, very nice monastery
and not a single check point met on the way.
While on the afternoon I got a marshrutka to the impressive
ex Azeri town of Shushi, 9km from Stepanakert.
The third day I reentered Armenia reaching the town of Goris
by a shared taxi from Stepanakert (2h, 4 euro/each)
[Reentering in Armenia]
Alby
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IMPRESSIONS ABOUT NAGORNO
Till ten years ago Nagorno was one of the protagonist
of the news, now everybody has forgotten this small piece of
land who claims the autonomy while disputed between Azerbaijan
and Armenia.
However Nagorno is still there…
The capital Stepanakert with its old Lada/ Zigulì cars,
the girls dressed like parading, the clothes hung in the sky,
the soldiers doing everything except the militaries… it's
quite a movie set.
Shushi: I found quite impressive this kind of 'post-apocalyptic
like' place seemed inhabited by just few survivors. In fact
now the town is more a bunch of rubbles and abandoned buildings
characterized by two ruined mosques with their towering minarets
still dominating the landscape.
The Gandzasar monastery is nice, but it cannot be the reason
for a trip to Nagorno.
I know your question: is it worth going to Nagorno?
If you don't go there thinking to see touristy highlights, but
to experience what's the situation of a disputed country, that
from Islamic got fully Catholic, connected to the rest of the
world by just a road, YES go there!
However if you are still wondering if it's the case, it means
you haven't the right point of view you need to appreciate,
so skip it.
Alby
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