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HOME > Kazakhstan




Kazakhstan

04 days (only Kazakhstan),  Dec '06

 


 

INTRO KAZAKHSTAN

Kind of travel:
a wholly independent travel

When
:
23rd- 28th Dec 2006 (days only in Kazakhstan)

Do I need a visa
:
Yes, and you (if EU) have to require in advance by the Kazakh Embassy. It costs 50€ but at least it's a nice coloruful big stick.

How many km
:
1120 km (only Kazakhstan)

How I moved
:
trains are the best way to cover the Kazaki huge distances; the standard is the Russian one, although a little worn out, but still a pleasure at least when you are the only one on the train as it happened to me.


Freezing or baking
:
freezing of course! In Kazakhstan the climate is continental, hence hot summers and bitter winters. In particular in Dostyk a militar was proud of their world largest temperature range: + 40 in summer and - 40 in winter!

Where I slept:
I spent two nights in a Soviet dull hotel (40€ per night) and two nights on the 2nd class couchette (kupe) of the warm empty train

What I liked:
I'm fond of the Central Asian atmosphere, characterized by the cultural mix of Asians and Russians. Alma-ty, even if not ufficialy, is still the capital of Kazakhstan being a very lively city. Crossing Kazakhstan by the warm and empty train is an adventure and the border town of
Dostyk is one of the most remote places I've ever been.

What I disliked:
Food won't be the remarkable memory of your trip.

How much daily:
Almaty is not so cheap; sleeping : 40€ for a double, budget: 50€/ day pp.


What you do need:
Take a book for the looong train trip and try to have some basic Russian, at least being able to read cirillyc alphabet (it's easy!)


 


TRAVEL IN KAZAKHSTAN



Landed in Almaty (ex Kazakh capital), in the heart of the night I took a taxi asking for a cheap hotel. I already had my first tough negotiation on the price, ending up paying 21€ for the trip airport- centrum.
On top of it I needed to change money; the guy took me to a friend of him who was sleeping in a room. He woke up the guy who changed me the money. The hotel was a standard dull soviet place, charging me 40€ for the room.
I spent one day hanging around the city before catching the train for the long trip to Urumqi. I found the city charming: the colorful onion-like orthodox church roofs, the frozen green parks, .... then I got the cable car to enjoy the view from Koktyube hill. The cable car was a kind of rusty but the panorama great.
In Almaty there's a mix of soviet wooden rotten houses and glass covered new buildings; you can breath the economy is booming.
In the evening I jumped on the train for the 33h train journey till the Chinese Xinjang Capital: Urumqui.
The Kazakh landscape scrolling through the window was surreal: an endless desert covered by snow shaped by the wind.
At the border, we changed the train wheels (the Russian rail gauge is wider); the train was quite empty, warm, and comfortable. It got stopped 10 hourse at the Chinese- Kazak bordertown of Dostyk; here I had a walk in the town to the magazin, typical soviet emporium selling everything. Dostyk is really a scaring gosthy dominated just by a militar presence. One guy told me that in the town one of the few females was the bartender whom most of the militaries (him included) fell in love with :-)


[Travelling in China]

Alby

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