I got the visa in advance (in Italy,
40 euro, 4 days): easy to have unless there's any
evidence you have been in Israel. At the border they
checked every single stamp of my 30 pages full passport.
At the bus station you can be asked to register your
presence, in particalr in Quamishle and Deir Er Zur.
You need a permit. You have to get from the Ministry
of Interior in Damascus (it's indicated in the Syria
2004 ed L. Planet) It is opened from Sunday to Thursday
(8-14, it takes 20min (just with your passport and
a photo) and above all it's for free!
You can get the permission for the same day or for
the next one.
Then by minibus you reach Khan Arnabah (1h) and from
here you need negotiate a taxi to go to Quneitra.
At a check point before entering the town (where they'll
check you permit) an escort'll join you (it's mandatory
and for free). The whole trip from Damascus'll take
5 hours. At the end I wanted to tip the escort but
he declined the money. If he hassles you saying
you can't walk around be insistent, since it seems
(and it has been also my experience) these escorts
are very lazy and they do everything to shorten your
trip as much as possible. As I know there's no time
limit (by the day) in your permission
At the time of travelling (May07) 1
USD= 52 SYP. You can change both euro and dollar easily.
had the usual vaccinations: ephatite A, B, typhus
and tetanus but I took nothing against malaria. I
hadn't any problem with the food or the drink, anyway
I never drank tap water.
I used Lonely Planet edition Nov2004.
I tried my best to take the train from
Deir Ez Zur to Aleppo; I asked for the schedule one
day in advance, but when I got at the station, I realised
they gave me the wrong one. It seems the trains pass
through Deir Ez Zur just in the hearth of the night.
I only succeded in getting the train from Aleppo to
In case you decide to visit Arward island
be aware it's a dump, not saying the nice boat trip
it isn't worthwhile though, especially if it's your
only chance to enjoy the Syrian sea